Adventures of YB125 in Bolivia. Part 2
- May 27 2018 07:03 AM GTM
- Category: Adventure
- Class: Off-Road
We finally started climbing! There is no more exhausting heat, there is no such quantity of mosquitoes and midges, the world around is no longer flat. Clouds fly higher, but they already cling to the stones appearing on the polonies, and not to the selva. Like home back! My heart cannot rejoice!
The Bolivians contrast sharply with the Brazilians, and one might think that they are gloomy, but this is not so, because during dialogue the apparent gloominess removes. They are really afraid to impose themselves with superfluous glance, an unnecessary question and only after making sure that you are open to communication, begin a dialogue in which it turns out that they are no less curious about where you and who are from. This is so unusual!))) In villages, often grandmothers and women in the market speak only Quechua. Still, Quechua here is somehow not the same as before) "Thank you" - on the local Quechua it is the whole phrase.
Refueling in Bolivia is real fun! There are two tariffs in the country: national and international (twice as expensive as the first). Local people are wonderfully refueling: a whole line of canisters, bottles, motorcycles under one meter, in silence, with a silent slip of money to the tanker. 50-70 liters 50-70 is accumulated already to our line))) All our statistics are doomed to failure, as usually we do not even have time to notice how many liters we were filled with.
Everything is considered approximately, rounding up according to Gauss. From our internationality, we have not yet suffered particularly. It even happened that the tankers showed us how to approach so that the numbers did not get into the security camera. In cases when there is no possibility to fill at the national price, we take checks, they may be needed at police stations with document verification. In general, it is not boring here. But a bit worried about the future. It would be necessary to start a canister, but where to cling to it!
While no one sees: put your fingers in the exhaust pipe, lick the rear turn and stop signals, try to take the number off...)))
The first thing you can hear about Samaypate before coming to it is that it is very popular among expats. The second was that around the village the guerrilla trails of the commandant Che were being trailed. Well, the third, is the presence of the ruins of the same name with the village, listed in the UNESCO World Heritage List. Of all the above, the most interesting seems to be the latter. A rue Che - is something that is mandatory for reading and understanding, but it is much more interesting and pleasant to look under the skirts of pitchers from the collection of pottery Mohokoy.
Bolivians are such people... the presence of a washing machine in the house is not the reason to wash in it. Innovations here are treated with reverence and almost superstitious distrust at the same time. But in the case of food, keeping manual processes is something more like family festive rituals :)
Revitalization begins when a stone slab and stone are brought into the courtyard. The first harvest of sweet corn in the evening is smeared into mass. And already in the morning all the residents of the house wake up from the sweet smell of cheese choclos, which are baked in the garden on fire. Soon the sleepy guests are already gathering in the courtyard at the big table. With this smell, it seems the air is flowing good mood :) all chatting, licking greasy fingers from cheese, and waiting for a new cake. A large basket, prepared for ready-made choklos, does not have time to fill.
There are a lot of expats in Samipat. Moreover, it turned out that they settled here for 35-40 years. Today, Senor Jacobo, who, with our lord Sarita, has been living here for 50 years (since being married) said: "The first was a German. It seems that we lived here for 15 years ... It was he who built the first house in the hills, above the village ... Our house on the outskirts was (the first square from the square), and now Samayipata has grown so much! "
To be continued…