It has begun!

Matt Carroll, I wanted to take the time to reply, and not on a phone keyboard, because it would have been long... then I forgot. So, here goes!In short, yes: More speed reduces my maximum range. But we must compare the same number of batteries.To be clear, let me describe how it is with 2 batteries first, since it's its normal operation setup. I'll end with a single-battery quickie. FYI, I have extended range batteries. They're both 1500W power output, together plugged in parallel makes it 3000W.[ WARNING: TED Talk Wall of Text ]--= Limits & Riding Modes =--To be categorized as a 50cc scooter under Québec law, the top speed must be 70kph. I can top at 75kph, to allow to passing someone. The top speed is programmed into the motherboard. While I could go faster, the program prevents me from doing so. The torque is a 125cc equivalent, so my zero-to-70 is pretty quick.Even at constant top speed, I can ride for about 60 to 70 km (about 40 to 45 miles).I do have multiple modes I can choose from:Mode 1 Eco: Very slow acceleration. Top speed of 25kph. Maximum range of up to 160km, in ideal conditions (which is what they advertise as glorious, but no one stay in Eco mode, so no one reaches 160km).Mode 2 Dynamic: Better acceleration. Limits the power output to 1500W. Top speed of 45kph. Acceleration a somewhat faster than a 50cc engine, but the top speed is similar to a 50cc scooter. I'm unsure of maximum range, but continue reading for details on range.Mode 3 Sport: 125cc-equivalent acceleration. Gives the full 3000W power output. Top speed to 70to75kph. A normal 50cc scooter cannot accelerate like this, nor reach these speeds, especially considering the NIU NQi GTS is pretty heavy compared to 50cc scooters. As above, below I talk about range.--= Choice of Riding Modes =--Realistically, I ride alternating between Dynamic and Sport modes. Based on the street's top speed, I adjust myself. If I'm riding in a 30kph school zone, I'm gonna stay in Dynamic Mode. Even at full throttle, I'm limited at 45kph in this mode. But if I turn onto a faster boulevard or service lane, I shifted into Sport mode, allowing myself to keep with the faster flow of traffic.Sometimes, when crossing a busy street, I'll temporarily switch to Sport mode just to zoom across the intersection, and return to Dynamic mode.And if I'm in a parking lot, or prefer slow acceleration to to some back and forth parking manoeuvres, I'll switch to Eco mode, for safety reasons.If I'm stuck in traffic, I'll put myself in Eco mode to avoid unnecessary battery drainage from stop and go.There's no lane splitting in my province, but we play with grey area of this law by filtering when traffic is stopped, so I'll also use Eco mode in this case to avoid inadvertently accelerating into a door, mirror, turning vehicle, or crossing pedestrian/cyclist between stopped cars. Safety first!

Matt Carroll, --= Forced Eco Mode for Battery Savings =--Current Lithium-Ion batteries are sensitive to excessive drainage when there isn't a lot of juice left. So, NIU has implemented a forced Eco mode when the battery is below 15%. At this stage, I cannot set it to Dynamic or Sport modes. I'm therefore limited to 25kph.This prevents damaging the batteries, extending the overall lifespan. But it also allows me to reach my destination if I have more distance to cover, especially if I could not cover the remaining distance in higher modes, since more juice is being drained.(Note: Not all e-ride manufacturers do this, but NIU does.)This is tricky, though. I once miscalculated and had 11km to go to get home, but I was stuck in Eco mode. And Google Maps kept giving me fast service lanes as the way home, so I had to wiggle my way around residential street and mall parking lots to make it home. I quickly learned to manage my range after this.--= Realistic Range =--On average, ignoring Eco mode, it's about 1% battery use per KM.So, from all of this, and my experiences, I now keep an eye on the percentages I have left. To be safe and avoid getting stuck in Eco mode, I plan my round trips to be at most 80km (if I start with 100% charge). This allows me to use Sport mode whenever I want or need, and still have that extra 5km margin of error to work with. If I'm stuck in Eco mode for the last KM, that's fine because at that point I'm very close to home and in residential streets.My calculations go something like this:Current Charge % - 15% = Available Charge %Available Charge % / 2 = From Here to There Distance (in %) = From There to Here Distance (in %)Available Charge % + 15% = What I read on the Charge Meter %, ensuring I don't end up in the 15% Eco Mode portionFor example, say I start with a 50% charge.50 - 15 = 35 ... so I have 35% charge for a round trip.When aimlessly riding, I divide the 35% by 2 = 17.5%. Then I add the 15% Eco Mode Buffer.So, in this example, I ride aimlessly until I have 32.5% charge remaining (17.5.% + 15% Eco Buffer).This gives me another 17.5% charge for the ride back.And it ensures I never enter the 15% Forced Eco Mode Buffer.

Matt Carroll, --= So, What About On A Single Battery? =--If I unplug one of the batteries, I only have 1500W of power output. In this case, the only modes available to me are Eco and Dynamic. My top speed is 45kph. My acceleration is close to 50cc.On that single battery, my range is also halved, since I only have the juice of the one battery to work with.Of course, if I plan to use one battery until it's at 15%, then unplug it and plug in the other fully charged battery (and use it until 15%), I theoretically have more range than I would have on my dual-battery set up. It would involve stopping halfway to switch plugs, but I would be limited to slow streets.But I'd never pass any slow moving vehicle, I'd feel unsafe if I cannot reach, say, a 50kph flow of traffic, and crossing a busy intersection would also feel unsafe.Can I do it? Sure. Would I do it? Nah. =D--= Extra Fun Stuff =--On electric, when going downhill, I give an initial jolt to have speed, then don't throttle at all. No throttle, no battery usage.My brakes are regenerative, meaning they capture the heat from braking to send some of that energy back into the batteries. On a a long ride from 100% to 15%, depending on the amount of braking I did, I can recuperate up to 6% charge, so I could reach 90km. I don't rely on this in my calculations, though, since I don't know how much I'll brake, and I prefer non-stop roads.Mixing these two facts together, I'll apply light braking during a long downhill, allowing me to get a few %s back in to my battery.--= Thank You For Attending My TED Talk... LOL =--

Matt Carroll, (I see my replies as walls of text without the line spaces I had included. I hope you see it as a properly laid out text that's actually readable.)