Now it is just rust to deal with. There are a lot of ways to remove rust from steel. One way is acids. Strong ones like muriatic (hydrochloric), or weaker ones like phosphoric, acetic (vinegar), ci...

I'm getting ready to paint the tank and fenders. To ramp up to this there is all the standard sheet metal prep work, but before that, I wanted to make sure the tank was in good enough shape to use....

  First put on the rim strips, aligning the hole with the valve stem hole in the rim.  On the back wheel, it's necessary to cut holes for the rim locks....

Disc and sprocket to be fitted but I couldn't wait to see the wheel on the swing arm....

  Wheels are back - Yay!   They are just as I hoped they would turn out - well pleased. Front wheel is a KTM hub on a 19 x 1.85 rim with a 110/80 B19 TKC80 Conti Twinduro Tubeless tyre....

This bike had an Ewarts dual push-pull petcock that combined the main and reserve valves into a single unit. It had been leaking badly when I last rode it 30 years ago, and I'm sure whatever fuel was...

Today I refitted my sludge tube and when it cam to refitting the screwed plug my replacement plug went in very easily - too easily in fact and has ended up deep in the thread....

A couple of days of off-and on work later, I had this. The filters (I can use either of the smaller diameter filters) have a 3/4-16 thread, so that's what the threaded nipple is. The nipple goes int...

Triumphs of this era didn't have true oil filters.  What Triumph called filters in the sump and in the oil tank are really just coarse screens.  The only real provision for removing par...

As for the head - it's in quite a poor state, with existing damage to the right hand exhaust port. It's being blasted at the moment to check for further hidden damage but as a TR7 head is quite rare I...

Ok……wiring is definitely not my strong point……..I can tig weld two razor blades together, but can’t solder worth a shit, have always gone to the local hardware store for blister packs of crappy connec...

OK - the new kick-start has arrived and Hallelujah it will clear the pegs beautifully.......but (why is there always a clucking BUT!) the kick-start boss is going to foul my lovely KTM brake pedal. T...

The front brake cable was definitely not original. It appeared to be some kind of universal replacement because there was no yoke fitting at the brake end--only a clamp arrangement that allowed adjus...

These are the little brass fittings that the soldered wire end slips into so that it can attach to the throttle twist grip. The one on the right was damaged, the left one was made from a piece of 1/4...

Buying all new control cables (not speedo and tach) for the bike would apparently run around $200. Having promised Bonnie I would try to keep costs under control, I looked into building the cables my...

I determined that since the original screws are enough larger than the repro ones, that I could drill and re-tap the body for the original screws. After buying the special taps, I probably would have...

The throttle twist grip assembly is a two cable unit. The housing halves were in good shape except for severely pitted chrome on the top half.  ...

The first problem solver……….get rid of that pitted, ratty points cover………a nice finned cover……very cool....

Whilst I was idly passing time I've been seriously considering the kick-start problem. This is the problem caused by moving the foot pegs back into the swinging arc of the kick-start. Thus.... &n...

Unlike the left switch cluster, the right one needed some internal repair. I had done some resoldering in this switch long ago, and at least one connection didn't hold. Plastic parts respond to a go...