Triumphs of this era didn't have true oil filters.  What Triumph called filters in the sump and in the oil tank are really just coarse screens.  The only real provision for removing par...

As for the head - it's in quite a poor state, with existing damage to the right hand exhaust port. It's being blasted at the moment to check for further hidden damage but as a TR7 head is quite rare I...

Ok……wiring is definitely not my strong point……..I can tig weld two razor blades together, but can’t solder worth a shit, have always gone to the local hardware store for blister packs of crappy connec...

OK - the new kick-start has arrived and Hallelujah it will clear the pegs beautifully.......but (why is there always a clucking BUT!) the kick-start boss is going to foul my lovely KTM brake pedal. T...

The front brake cable was definitely not original. It appeared to be some kind of universal replacement because there was no yoke fitting at the brake end--only a clamp arrangement that allowed adjus...

These are the little brass fittings that the soldered wire end slips into so that it can attach to the throttle twist grip. The one on the right was damaged, the left one was made from a piece of 1/4...

Buying all new control cables (not speedo and tach) for the bike would apparently run around $200. Having promised Bonnie I would try to keep costs under control, I looked into building the cables my...

I determined that since the original screws are enough larger than the repro ones, that I could drill and re-tap the body for the original screws. After buying the special taps, I probably would have...

The throttle twist grip assembly is a two cable unit. The housing halves were in good shape except for severely pitted chrome on the top half.  ...

The first problem solver……….get rid of that pitted, ratty points cover………a nice finned cover……very cool....

Whilst I was idly passing time I've been seriously considering the kick-start problem. This is the problem caused by moving the foot pegs back into the swinging arc of the kick-start. Thus.... &n...

Unlike the left switch cluster, the right one needed some internal repair. I had done some resoldering in this switch long ago, and at least one connection didn't hold. Plastic parts respond to a go...

The T100 needs a skid plate……….something like Bast Brothers Welding used to make for the west coast desert racers. I found the photo above at Show & Go Cycle Shop blogspot. I wish I could call up...

Got the fromt turn signals done. The turn signal assemblies on this bike are Japanese units. They aren't the same as what is shown in my parts manual, and I believe I must have installed them for so...

The oil pressure sender (just a switch in this case), and the oil pressure relief are connected directly to the high pressure gallery from the oil pump that feeds the crankshaft. The relief valve is...

Here are the pieces of the headlight bucket assembly and front wiring harness.  Installed a new weather grommet.  I used a dielectric grease on the electrical connections.  There...

Worked on the headlight bucket and internal wiring this week. Beyond the fact that I had a cracked headlight lens from some past embarassment, the chrome on the headlight bucket and rim looked pretty...

The fourth replacement wire had a bullet connector on the other end to interconnect with the rear harness. The replacement connector ia not identical to the original, but is compatible. This bullet...

Started to look at the wiring harness a week or so ago. The wiring on this bike consists of two main wiring harnesses.  One connects to the stuff in the headlight shell as well as the front...

Time to mount headlight and taillight………I bought an aluminum number plate from Speed & Sport…….I made these mounts for the plate, they bolt to the gauge pod holes. Once the plate is in position th...