After the pointer needle (what was left of it) was pried off, the dial came off by drifting out the center keepers of the two small reusable plastic rivets.  This reveals the internal mech...

I pulled out the speedometer and tachometer a couple of weeks ago to try to decide what to do about them. They are both the original, stock instruments that came on the bike. The speedometer was in...

After all the cleanup and painting, installed on the bike, they didn't look right. Both front footrests were angled up at five degrees or so, surely the result of a number of minor spills I took over...

The forward footrests on my Daytona are fixed, while the rear (passenger) ones fold up to be vertical when not in use. The rear pegs mount to the bracket that supports the mufflers. Since this bike...

After I posted the above, I got a couple of messages that I had overlooked one potential source of leaks. The way I plugged the filler neck with an expanding stopper put the filler neck joint outside...

The leak was where the rear mounting tab was welded to the tank. It looked like an incompete weld, or a weld may have pulled loose or cracked. This would likely be a high stress area, and it's possi...

The only other oriface in the tank is for the fuel petcock. To eliminate as many external sources of leaks as possible, I decided not to use the petcock, but use a simple hose barb adaptor instead....

Now it is just rust to deal with. There are a lot of ways to remove rust from steel. One way is acids. Strong ones like muriatic (hydrochloric), or weaker ones like phosphoric, acetic (vinegar), ci...

I'm getting ready to paint the tank and fenders. To ramp up to this there is all the standard sheet metal prep work, but before that, I wanted to make sure the tank was in good enough shape to use....

  First put on the rim strips, aligning the hole with the valve stem hole in the rim.  On the back wheel, it's necessary to cut holes for the rim locks....

This bike had an Ewarts dual push-pull petcock that combined the main and reserve valves into a single unit. It had been leaking badly when I last rode it 30 years ago, and I'm sure whatever fuel was...

A couple of days of off-and on work later, I had this. The filters (I can use either of the smaller diameter filters) have a 3/4-16 thread, so that's what the threaded nipple is. The nipple goes int...

Triumphs of this era didn't have true oil filters.  What Triumph called filters in the sump and in the oil tank are really just coarse screens.  The only real provision for removing par...

The front brake cable was definitely not original. It appeared to be some kind of universal replacement because there was no yoke fitting at the brake end--only a clamp arrangement that allowed adjus...

These are the little brass fittings that the soldered wire end slips into so that it can attach to the throttle twist grip. The one on the right was damaged, the left one was made from a piece of 1/4...

Buying all new control cables (not speedo and tach) for the bike would apparently run around $200. Having promised Bonnie I would try to keep costs under control, I looked into building the cables my...

I determined that since the original screws are enough larger than the repro ones, that I could drill and re-tap the body for the original screws. After buying the special taps, I probably would have...

The throttle twist grip assembly is a two cable unit. The housing halves were in good shape except for severely pitted chrome on the top half.  ...

Unlike the left switch cluster, the right one needed some internal repair. I had done some resoldering in this switch long ago, and at least one connection didn't hold. Plastic parts respond to a go...

Got the fromt turn signals done. The turn signal assemblies on this bike are Japanese units. They aren't the same as what is shown in my parts manual, and I believe I must have installed them for so...