The instrument lights are pretty crude little lamp holders that snap into the back of the instrument cans. They were grungy, and one of the hot wires had broken off the internal lamp contact, but the...

There is also a little foam cushion that goes in the bottom of the can....

Put the faces and pointers back on , and now it's time to calibrate.  I built a jig to hold the instrument, a variable speed drive motor, and an optical tachometer.  The stand is from a litt...

Next picture is with the input spindle installed and the worm gear and magnet pressed on. I realized one thing in looking closely at these parts. I've often heard that if a speedometer or tach inner...

Barrel was also given a rebore to +20 and matched to my low compression Tiger pistons. I'm now pondering on whether to get the head stove enamelled black like the rocker covers, cylinders and crankca...

With all the parts being brass, soldering is the obvious way to fix the nested tubes into the hole:...

  After the pointer needle (what was left of it) was pried off, the dial came off by drifting out the center keepers of the two small reusable plastic rivets.  This reveals the internal mech...

I pulled out the speedometer and tachometer a couple of weeks ago to try to decide what to do about them. They are both the original, stock instruments that came on the bike. The speedometer was in...

Front fender will be held in place using brackets of the existing bottom fork metalwork. The original KTM Duke fender was a close fitting hugger that would look terrible (and won't fit). I should be a...

After all the cleanup and painting, installed on the bike, they didn't look right. Both front footrests were angled up at five degrees or so, surely the result of a number of minor spills I took over...

The forward footrests on my Daytona are fixed, while the rear (passenger) ones fold up to be vertical when not in use. The rear pegs mount to the bracket that supports the mufflers. Since this bike...

After I posted the above, I got a couple of messages that I had overlooked one potential source of leaks. The way I plugged the filler neck with an expanding stopper put the filler neck joint outside...

The leak was where the rear mounting tab was welded to the tank. It looked like an incompete weld, or a weld may have pulled loose or cracked. This would likely be a high stress area, and it's possi...

  OK - finally had some time before the 6 Nations rugby started to get the bike off the stand, sit down, twist the imaginary throttle and make Vroom Vroom noises (if you tell me you don't&nb...

The only other oriface in the tank is for the fuel petcock. To eliminate as many external sources of leaks as possible, I decided not to use the petcock, but use a simple hose barb adaptor instead....

Now it is just rust to deal with. There are a lot of ways to remove rust from steel. One way is acids. Strong ones like muriatic (hydrochloric), or weaker ones like phosphoric, acetic (vinegar), ci...